Introduction
Spring rolls, lemongrass and pho; are words not typically associated with the West African Nation of Senegal. These dishes cover the country, thanks to its unexpected Vietnamese inhabitants.
1st Migration Route
The Indochina War (1946-1954) saw a battle-worn France fill its Far East Expeditionary Corps with colonial African troops (up to 43.5%). It led to the unlikely contact between African soldiers and Vietnamese women. Many women suffered violence during the occupation, (others awaited a different fate). After France’s defeat, Afro-Vietnamese babies were the ultimate proof of alliances with the enemy and many young children suffered abandonment. However, dozens of married Vietnamese women returned with their companions to Senegal. Senegal resembled home for the Vietnamese. French culture was pervasive in both colonies at the time, including bakeries, schools and architecture. Many went on to sell dishes in Dakar’s food markets – including nem (spring rolls).
2nd Migration Route
Vietnamese agricultural experts were sent to work with senegalese farmers from the 1990s, under the sponsorship from the United Nations food programme. The technicians came on two-year postings, leaving their spouses behind, living in communal houses near villages they help. Orange trees were planted on the ends of vegetable plots, so the roots which grow beneath can catch water seeping away. Eucalyptus trees serve as windbreaks to prevent sand blowing onto lettuce. A centrifugal honey extractor is turned by hand, leaving honey combs intact and removing impurities. Vietnamese technology requires no electricity or diesel, the perfect solution for grassroots development.
The Modern Vietnamese-Senegal Relations
Most Senegalese-Vietnamese people reside in Dakar, with various restaurants in the capital. Le Dragon is the oldest, credited with kickstarting an East-Asian food trend in the city. One of the most popular Senegal street foods is spring rolls. Recently, both countries met to boost their trade agreements, citing a long-standing friendship between both nations. Both want to avoid double taxation and strengthen investment agreements. The trend is clear; Vietnam doubled its exports to Senegal from the previous year to 52.56 million USD in 2019.
Conclusion
Although the Vietnamese diaspora in Senegal is significant, it has begun to shrink. Jean Gomis, an Afro-Vietnamese descendent, is one of three people who can speak, read and write Vietnamese. Lame, another descendent, stated the community only gathers for funerals, not the 200-packed parties she once hosted. It is predicted the Vietnamese language will be completely lost imminently.
But even if perhaps memories are misplaced, people pass and languages are lost – some things are here to stay here in Senegal. The taste of spring rolls, lemongrass and pho.
